So you’ve got a garden and your garden has become the local place for cats to meet up and poop. Ugh, yuck. Not only does it likely cause damage when they dig around and bury their poop, but it is just gross running across it!

On top of this, if you so happen to be pregnant or happen to have a pregnant woman in the house then you should take extra care due to the potential for toxoplasmosis. If it was your neighbors dog pooping in your garden you’d expect your neighbor to clean it up, but free roaming cats are not so easy to track and clean up after.

So what can be done to stop cats from fouling your garden? The good news is there are a lot of ways to help deter this behavior and most of them are very affordable and easy to implement while also being safe for the cat.

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Stop Cats From Fouling  Your Garden

So what are some of the best ways to stop cats from fouling your garden? Let’s look at this through a couple of large categories. I’ve put them in priority order in the quick guide below.

The easiest thing to do will be to keep them out of the garden. The hardest and most frustrating is giving up on that and providing an alternative for the cats.

One quick note before we go any further. This may seem too obvious to point out, but if it is your cat using the garden as a toilet then don’t let your cat outside anymore.

Thoughts on free roaming cats vary from place to place, but it isn’t abuse to keep your cat inside. So long as you provide a good enriching environment with lots of play and exercise your cat can live a healthy life indoors.

 

Quick Reference Guide
Keeping Cats Away	Making the Garden Less Attractive
Know You Legal Options	Providing an Alternative
Befriend and Adopt	Wrapping It Up

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Keeping Cats Away From Your Garden

If you’ve got cats wandering in your garden the most obvious option is to simply keep them out of the garden to begin with. Though this may be easier said than done depending on how your garden is designed and where it is located.

Mine is in a small fenced in space behind my house so there’s only one major entry point for cats. If your garden has only a couple of entry points then you’ve got an advantage.

You can use these entry points for the placement of deterrents, robotic or human. So what type of deterrents are we talking? Let’s take a quick look:

Motion Detector Deterrents: There are a few kinds motion detectors, the ones that make noises (you can’t hear them but cats can) and the kind that spray stuff. The idea is that they’ll identify something moving then react.

• Ultrasonic: These blast a high pitch noise at the cats that they don’t like which deters them from coming in the area. Check out some of the best Ultrasonic Repellers at Amazon.
• Water: These blast a stream of water at the cats when they are detected. Let’s be honest, nobody likes getting sprayed by a jet of water when they aren’t expecting it.  Check out some of the best water spray repellers at Amazon.
• Air: Read my review of the SSSCat Automatic Cat Deterrent which uses compressed air instead of sound or water.

Guard Duty: While not ideal, if you see a cat while you’re in the garden, you can spray the cat with your hose. The biggest concern with this method is that as soon as you’re not around the cat is likely to come right back.

Back to the Quick Guide

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Making the Garden Less Attractive (to cats)

If blocking off the entrances is simply not an option due to garden design then you’ll want to do your best to make the garden unattractive to cats. There are lots of easy ways to do this while still maintaining a great looking garden.

Keep in mind this is about making the garden a place that cats simply don’t like. We’re not trying to injure the cat, we simply want to ensure he or she would rather spend their time elsewhere. So what options to we have?

Mulch the garden: Cats have very sensitive pads on the bottom of their feet. Because of these sensitive pads you can often make them feel uncomfortable by placing specific surfaces on the ground. I talk to this in my article on keeping cats off counters, but the same idea applies here.

Large pieces of mulch help you in two ways, they are uncomfortable to walk on and they also cover up the dirt that cats like to bury their poop in. Do note it must be large format mulch as fine mulch will just encourage them to return.

Chicken Wire: While chicken wire won’t harm a cat it’ll again make the space uncomfortable to walk on which should lead the cat to avoid the space. Aim for chicken wire with small squares, about one inch wide or so. If possible lay it in the places a cat is most likely to enter the garden or the places you’ve seen the cat perusing most commonly.

Spread crushed pepper: Spreading crushed red pepper around the garden has been proven successful in numerous cases. Just keep in mind that it’ll get washed away if you spray down the garden or if it rains. This means you need to spread it around constantly unless you live in a dry environment or you have an underground irrigation system.

Spike Mats: Sounds vicious doesn’t it? It isn’t. I’m not talking about mats with actual dangerous spikes on them. I’m talking about the kind of mats that have relatively pliable plastic prongs on them in very close proximity to one another.

Just like the other options above these make cats very uncomfortable and will hopefully drive cats to spend their time elsewhere. You can chop the material into small segments and place it throughout the garden area for maximum coverage.

Plant Rue: “You’ll rue the day you crossed me!” This is what you’ll be saying when you plant rue in your garden to ward off unwanted cats. Rue may not the ideal plant you want in your garden, but cats will avoid it cause it has such a strong odor. While rue is not something you’d want your cat to ingest cats are far more prone avoid it completely as opposed to attempting to eat it.

Odor Based Repellents: There are numerous types of odor based repellents on the market and the size of your garden and the type of entry will likely drive which one you might want to try. The general idea behind them is that cats either don’t like the scent or are afraid of the scent and that will drive them off. So what options exist you might ask? Well let’s take a brief look.

• • Citrus Peels & Juice: Cats generally do not like the smell of citrus from lemons/limes/oranges. You can try eating an orange and then chopping the peel into bits and scattering it throughout your garden. You can also dribble a bit of the juice around the outskirts of planting beds. Just keep in mind every time it rains you’ll have to clean up and put down new peels.
  • Granules: These are an option if you have a large garden. They are easy to quickly spread through a large garden as you can just shake them out of a container. A common brand is Havahart, but users report mixed success.
  • Poop: Yes, I said it. Poop. Ever heard the good old phrase fight fire with fire? Well here’s a great example. Lion dung. That’s right, lion poop is being harvested as a product now and it can be used to keep cats away. They know the scent comes from a larger predator and are inclined to avoid the area from there on out. It is quite expensive, but you can check it out on Amazon.
  • Spray: Spray is the go to option if you only have a few plants you’re trying to cover. I talk a bit about this in my article on keeping cats from eating your houseplants as well, but they generally have a horrible bitter taste or a strong smell that cats despise and simply won’t come near. Keep in mind you’ll have to reapply it relatively often, especially if it rains a lot where you are.
  • Random strong scents: Cats don’t like the smell of pipe tobacco or coffee, so you can spread the grounds or used tobacco around your garden. Another option is a mixture of vinegar and water that can be sprayed around the yard. It is generally harmless to plants but cats will not like it. Any of these options will require a relatively consistent refresh so they aren’t ideal in many circumstances.

Back to the Quick Guide

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Knowing Your Legal Options

If neither of the above options is working then you may want to consider pursuing legal options. Every city and municipality treats animals differently, but most do have laws around keeping owned pets on property or on a leash.

These can be used to your advantage if the animal soiling your garden is not a stray or feral cat.

Check on leash laws in your areas: While most people would associate leash laws with dogs they often actually apply to all outdoor pets. This means cats. Check your local laws for more information. Once you know the laws, it gives you the authority to do something about the cats roaming in your garden.

Find the owner: If the cat is friendly and you can take a look at the collar then see if you can give the owner a call.  If you can’t get near the cat but can see a collar do your best to follow the cat home.

Understood this re free time and some detective work, but it may prove fruitful. Most owners will be sympathetic and will try to work with you to solve the problem once they realize their cat is causing an issue.

You’ll obviously want to threats when talking to the owner. Instead focus on the potential danger for the cat, especially on the toxic plants that are in your garden that could cause harm to the feline. There are a ton of common plants that are toxic to cats that owners should be concerned about.

Call animal control: If all else fails and you are in the right with the law (or if the cat happens to be a stray) then give animal control a call to come by and pick up the animal. Animal Control often partners closely with many of the shelters in cities and counties to try to find homes for stray cats.

Back to the Quick Guide

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Providing an Alternative Space

Plant cat grass: As I’ve mentioned in numerous posts, cats absolutely love cat grass. It is super easy to grow and cheap as well. I’d recommend growing it in pots though as opposed to a spot in the ground. The primary reason being it grows super quickly but then dies quickly too. Pots would allow you to easily rotate out new crops with minimal hassle.

Plant catnip: Cats love catnip and cat mint as well and you can distract them from your garden by planting it in another part of the yard.   On top of this these plants have a longer growth cycle than cat grass so they’ll stay around longer.

Be careful with this option though, I previously put out catnip for one roaming neighbor and ended up attracting another.

Create a sand patch: You know how your cat likes cat litter specifically, well outdoor cats will be prone to enjoy sand. Sand actually used to be cat litter before it was determined that clay was more absorbent.

If you create a small area of sand cats will likely use this as a litter box in place of your wonderful garden soil so you’ll have to be on the lookout to scoop this area instead of another.

Spread fine mulch around the area: While cats don’t like heavy mulch as referenced above, they do like digging in fine mulch (similar to the sand mentioned above), so it will attract them to the area as opposed to your precious garden space.

Try other plants cats love: Cats also like bean plants, berries & flax to name a few. You can also check out my list of plants that are cat safe for other ideas.

Back to the Quick Guide

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Befriend and Adopt the Cat

This is probably the most complicated of the options available to you, but it may also be one of the nicest and most rewarding things you can do!

If it turns out the cat is a stray then it may be using your garden as a bathroom because it doesn’t have anywhere else to go. If that’s the case and the cat seems friendly then you may want to consider building trust with the cat and adopting it. Many cats transition well to the indoor life.

There’s a full guide here on WikiHow that can walk you through the basics of befriending a new cat.

Do keep in mind that some cats are 100% feral and they’ll never have an interest in befriending humans.

Back to the Quick Guide

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Wrapping It Up

As you can see you’ve got a lot of options available to you to keep cats out of your garden in a completely safe and humane manner. As a cat owner I can completely understand you not wanting cat poop in your garden, so use these methods above to stop cats from fouling your garden!

While not every method will work for every cat there are a lot of options here that have proved successful and one is bound to help!

If you have any other thoughts on the ways to keep cats out of your garden then please do leave a comment below so I can update the post accordingly.

StuffCatsWant.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.

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References

1. http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/pests/cat.htm
2. http://www.sanantonio.gov/AnimalCare/WhatWeDoServices/OutdoorCatsTNR.aspx
3. http://www.colostate.edu/Dept/CoopExt/4DMG/Pests/animal.htm
4. http://www.longbeach.gov/acs/about_us_information/community_cats.asp
5. http://pss.uvm.edu/ppp/articles/cats.htm
6. http://www.seattle.gov/animal-shelter/animal-control/outdoor-cats

Product: Hexbug Cat Toy (Nano Nitro)

Cheapest Place to Buy: Amazon

My Rating: 5 out of 5

 

 

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Hexbug Cat Toy (Nano Nitro) Product Overview

The Hexbug Cat Toy is a cool set of automated vibrating bugs for entertaining your cat.  These bugs are designed to work on hard surfaces like wood floors or tile. The bugs are essentially a counterweight with some flimsy little rubber legs and as the counterweight rotates it makes the bugs bounce erratically across the floor.

This results in an unpredictable path of movement which is ideal for entertaining your feline friends.  While you can buy all sorts of Hexbug toys this particular set is a package of 5 and comes in a variety of different colors.

All of the bugs have the exact same functionality, the only difference is the specific color. If you order them from Amazon you’re likely to get a random variety of colors as opposed to the specific colors right on the box, but I’ll freely admit that the color really shouldn’t have any impact on your cat’s ability to play with the toys.

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My General Take:

My personal opinion, as someone who has a home that is all wood floor or tile, is that these are amazing cat toys. There’s a few reasons for this.

They provide randomness.  A lot of hands off or automated cat toys perform the exact same action over and over resulting in a very predictable pattern that your cat tends to get bored of incredibly quickly.

When your cat gets bored your cat ignores the toy. While you can of course rotate new toys in a cycle to maintain interest it is far easier to provide a toy that has randomness built right in!

Another major perk is the fact that they are almost completely automated.  If you have an open space you can flip them on then they’ll bounce around while your cat bats them all over the place. They are designed to right themselves when knocked over sideways or even upside down so that your cat won’t end up bored after one or two quick swipes at them.

On top of that each Hexbug Cat Toy has proven very durable. They’ve taken a solid beating from both of my cats and kept on ticking. Check out my full video review below if you’re interested.

I will admit there are a few items worth noting from a negative standpoint. First and foremost the Hexbugs are pretty small.  This means that your cat can easily pick them up and start chewing on them and potentially tear them to shreds or eat them.  I’d be less concerned for the toy itself and more concerned that your cat would accidentally eat part of the toy (especially the battery) that could cause some serious illness.

I’d recommend you keep an eye on your cat while they play with the Hexbugs. The only other item I’d call out is that if you have a house that isn’t some form of hard or solid floor (tile or wood) then these bugs will not work at all. I repeat, if your house is fully carpeted you’ll need to find an alternative. A large plastic tray of some sort will work fine so long as it has very short sides (half an inch even would contain the bugs).

I’m incredibly happy with my purchase of these toys and would definitely recommend them to others.

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The Pros:

• They require zero setup, they come fully functional right out of the box. They have one simple on off sliding switch to operate them.
• They provide a completely random pattern that keeps your cats engaged and entertained for long periods of time.
• You can easily run multiple Hexbugs at the same time to entertain multiple cats.
• You can easily design your own mazes or castles with cardboard to keep your cats guessing on where the bugs will go.
• The Hexbugs have proven incredibly durable and have taken consistent beatings from my cats for months.
• Changing out the batteries is simple and cheap. Given the cost of the bugs themselves you’ll want to replace the batteries.

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The Cons:

• They don’t operate at all on floors that are not solid. If you have all carpeted floors you’ll need a large plastic tray or a large cookie sheet. I’ll freely admit this does limit the fun for you and for your cat, but it works.
• Even though they are automated you should monitor any play sessions:
  • You’ll ensure you can find the bug once your cat is finished playing.
  • You’ll make sure the bug doesn’t sneak some place you can’t reach it. One of mine ended up under a cupboard and took hours to die.
  • You’ll ensure the bugs are not chewed up or swallowed on accident.
• They do easily get batted under couches and chairs which often means you have to dig them out.
• They are a bit pricy to get started, but the amount of time that my cats have spent playing with them makes it well worth the investment.

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What’s In the Box:

This is one of those products were you can see every single thing in the box given the way it is packed. There are 5 Hexbugs in the package and they do come with the batteries included and already installed. They are fully functional right out of the packaging. There’s nothing else in there.

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Frequently Asked Questions:

• What surfaces do they work on?
  • They will only work on hard surfaces like wood floors, tile or linoleum.
  • If you have carpet they will not work on the carpet.
  • If you’re still interested you can use something like a large cookie sheet or a large tray of some sort to contain the bugs in a carpeted home.
  • This set of bugs will not climb in the mazes (which are more geared toward humans anyway).
• Do these bugs climb?
  • This set of Hexbugs is not designed to climb. These Hexbugs are geared as cat toys and thus don’t need climbing capabilities.
• Do the Hexbugs come with batteries?
  • Yes, each Hexbug comes with a battery already installed.
• How long do the batteries last?
  • My experience is that the Hexbugs will operate for quite some time on a brand new battery out of the box. I haven’t measured myself, but I’d estimate a few hours at least.
• Can I replace the batteries if they die?
  • Yes, you can absolutely replace the batteries yourself.
• What type of batteries do they take?
  • They take LR44 – AG13 batteries. You can find those replacement batteries here.

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Wrapping It up:

I bought the Hexbug Cat Toy (Nano Nitro) 5 pack on a whim thinking they might be fun for a few minutes, I never expected that I’d get as much use out of them as I have today. So far they have proven to be my go to toy. They are hands off and it is easy to keep an eye on your kitties while they play. Compared to other automated toys they have significant advantages, the two key things that come to mind are:

• The random patterns work far better than the auto laser pointer systems that I have seen at work.
• They are incredibly durable, many of the string tossing systems I’ve used have been torn apart by my cats very quickly.

Could Hexbug do anything better? The one key item I’d call out is that it’d be awesome if you could set a timer of some sort on them. But if you’re watching your cats play with them it shouldn’t be a problem anyway.

If you’ve used these Hexbugs at home and have any experiences with them you’d like to share please comment below or shoot me a note at Craig@StuffCatsWant.com so I can update this article to reflect your thoughts.

 

StuffCatsWant.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.

 

Product Name: SSSCat Automated Cat Deterrent

Best Place to Get It: Amazon

Overall Rating: 3.5 Stars

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SSSCat Automated Cat Deterrent Product Overview

The SSSCat system is designed to keep your cat away from a specific location. It does so by using a motion sensor that basically determines when a cat walks into a specific area and then it blows a jet of compressed air in that direction.

SSSCat is also designed specifically to be non-harmful to your cat, that’s why it uses compressed air. This video gives you an idea of what it looks like in action:

It is also a great idea in that it has a major difference compared to other default methods of deterring your cat like yelling “No!” (bad idea).

Spraying your cat with water yourself (also a bad idea) or even shaking a jar of change when your cat goes somewhere you don’t want her to (again, bad idea). Both these methods often just make your cat afraid of you.

What’s that key difference you might ask? Well since the SSSCat is an automated product and doesn’t require your interaction the cat doesn’t start to associate the spraying of air with YOU!

This is imperative when training your cat to stop a certain behavior. Cats can very quickly start to associate all of those above items I mentioned with you.

Then as opposed to linking the things they don’t like to their behavior they simply start to think you are scary.  Not exactly the best way to form a loving relationship with your feline friend.

The SSSCat helps you avoid this pesky problem by enabling your cat to redirect their unhappiness toward the SSSCat itself, big plus!

I will freely admit that I have had mixed success with the SSSCat. What it really comes down to is the specific cat.  Since I foster quite often I have a lot of cats that have totally different personalities coming through my house.

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The Success Stories:

Cats that aren’t super adventurous and are scared easily will definitely be impacted by the SSSCat and will likely stay away from areas that it has been placed in for days if not weeks at a time.

My scaredy cat Lexi definitely did not like the SSSCat and steered clear of any area she encountered it in for quite a while.

[Update as of 6/27/18] – I had a new foster cat this past month that was an absolute counter surfer. She was a 2 year old female that had been a stray for quite some time before.

She simply would not stay off the counter with double sided tape, aluminum foil, etc. You name it.

I pulled out the SSSCat after probably over a year of sitting in a drawer (my cats no longer climb on the counters) and put it to work. Within about 3-4 days and 10-12 sprays my foster cat now stays off of the counters 95% of the time.

This was a cat that would let herself get absolutely covered in double sided tape and just shake it off no problem. The SSSCat got her in line within a couple of days and she’s far more bearable in the house now!

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The Not So Successful Stories

On the other hand I’ve had super adventurous young male cats a few times as fosters.

They are not very afraid of the SSSCat after the first or second time it sprays them.  Not only do they start ignoring it, but I’ve even had them knock it over pretty easily if they happen to hop up on the counter from behind it.

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They Key Notes Worth Taking Away

All in all I’d say it is a great gadget if other options haven’t worked. I’ve referenced this product in multiple places (like how to keep cats off your counters) because of the success I’ve had with it and the documented success others have had with it.

The biggest drawback of the SSSCat is that it is expensive to refill if you pay for the name brand refills. You can check this awesome video out for a way to keep refilling the original can with nothing but a bike pump and a tire valve.

You’ll likely already have the bike pump, but you might need to buy the tire valves.

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Pros

• The SSSCat is quite easy to setup and flip on within minutes. The directions are easy and it is pretty hard to screw up the setup.
• The SSSCat works great when you’re not around to keep an eye on your cats and serve as a deterrent.
• The SSSCat is super lightweight and really easy to relocate. This is helpful because if you have smart cats they’ll simply stop going to the one spot they get sprayed.
• The SSSCat ensures you can maintain a positive relationship with your cat because your cat will be unhappy or afraid of the SSSCat or the places it was setup as opposed to being afraid of you.
• The base product and initial can of compressed air come in at a relatively affordable price range to get started on training your cat.

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Cons

• The area of coverage from the SSSCat sensor is relatively limited. This means you’ll have to get multiples or rotate it on a schedule (which is easy as noted above). I’d recommend rotating yours unless you have a lot of issues and need multiples.
• The refills of compressed air really add up quickly if you have cats that like climbing on counters or high places. Be sure to check out this video (same as above) for more info on how to do this super cheap.
• The SSSCat is great at scaring the heck out of you, especially if you forget you left it on. I’ve startled myself at least a dozen times after forgetting about it.
• The base of the system is a simple can of compressed air which means it gets knocked over incredibly easily if a cat gets near it. Once it falls over it isn’t very effective until you set it back up again.
• It can and will startle your cat and in their fright I’ve had them jump off high places or knock things over in their sprints away from the SSSCat. While generally not a huge problem, be sure not to put anything breakable (glasses, vases, etc.) nearby the SSSCat while it is operating.

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Frequently Asked Questions about the SSSCat Automated Cat Deterrent

• What type of batteries does it take?
  • It requires 4 AA batteries that are not included.
• Does it have an on / off switch, or is it ‘always on’ once you add batteries?
  • It does have an on / off switch and is easy to flip on and off.
• How long will a single can of air last?
  • This is difficult to determine because it totally depends how often your cats set it off. The cats tend to last for about 80-100 sprays or so according to PetSafe though.
• Are there built in delays between sprays?
  • Yes, the default delay is two minutes between the first spray and the next to keep it from spending the whole canister in a few minutes time.
• Can it be used outdoors?
  • Absolutely, but it isn’t designed to be weather proof. Also keep in mind that almost any motion will set it off so you could quickly go through your supply of canned air using this option.
• Does it work in the dark?
  • It will work in the dark, but it doesn’t seem like it is able to detect things as far away as when it is well lit.
• Where can I get additional canisters of air?
  • You can refill the original can with a bicycle pump and a tire valve, check this video out for details.
  • They can be purchased right here if you need them. These are the branded versions.
  • Rumors indicate you can use any can of compressed air like these after you remove the top, but I haven’t tried it yet.

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Wrapping It Up

While the SSSCat Automated Cat Deterrent has a lot of merits and I’ve had positive experiences with it for my two resident cats, I’ll freely admit that the product isn’t going to work for everyone.

My two resident cats are pretty skittish and are scared off by loud noises and sudden movements. I’ve also seen success with a foster cat that was the biggest counter surfer I’ve ever met!

If you’ve got one of those cats that just doesn’t seem to care too much about what goes on around or just isn’t really afraid of things like loud noises or sudden movement then this may not be very successful in deterring your cat.

Find The Best Deal By Clicking Here

If you have any other thoughts on the SSSCat product or any experiences of your own to share then please do leave a comment below or shoot me an email at Craig@StuffCatsWant.com so I can update this post.

StuffCatsWant.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.

References: PetSafe

Kittens are fun and awesome furry little creatures. They are full of energy one second and then completely zonked out the next.  To say the least they have a lot of interesting things going on in their lives before they become a full grown feline. As you probably know, kittens don’t stay kittens for too long, only about a year or so.  But there are a lot of interesting kitten facts out there for that short period of time your cat remains a kitten.  Take a look below to read up on some of the most interesting kitten facts.

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Interesting Kitten Facts In No Particular Order

1. Kittens can be spayed or neutered when they are only eight weeks old. Some shelters and rescues will do this even sooner if the cat is over a specific weight, often about 2 pounds. These procedures should be performed before your cat hits the age of 4 months.
2. A female kitten can become pregnant at the age of 4 months meaning she’d have her first litter of kittens somewhere around the six month mark.
3. A group of kittens is called a “kindle.”
4. Kittens in the same litter can have more than one father. This is because the female cat releases multiple eggs over the course of a few days when she is in heat and she might mate with multiple fathers in that same time period.
5. Kittens under the age 3 months old have no response to catnip at all.
6. People often think that they’ve stumbled over a purebred stray kitten, but this is very uncommon. Many standard domestic shorthair cats look very similar to the color patterns of purebred cats so they are easily mistaken for each other. In fact my cat Beast looks quite similar to a Russian Blue but she’s just a standard grey American domestic shorthair.
7. There are usually somewhere between 2 and 5 kittens in a litter depending on the breed and size of the mother.
8. The record for the largest number of kittens in a single litter was 19. This record was set in 1970 in Yorkshire, England. Unfortunately 4 of the kittens were stillborn.
9. Over her lifetime a cat called Dusty had 420 kittens.
10. The oldest cat recorded giving birth to kittens was named Kitty, she was 30 years old. This happened in 1987!

11. Kittens sleep even more often than their adult counterparts (adults sleep about 16 hours a day). This is largely assumed to be because they release growth hormones while sleeping to help them grow up quickly.
12. Kittens only get 26 teeth in their first set of teeth, but by the time they are 7 to 8 months old they’ll have a whole new set that will last their whole life! The final set has 30 teeth.
13. Play fighting among kittens is a way for them to practice and learn skills for hunting and fighting. It also keeps them in great shape and helps keep them from getting overweight.
14. Raising two kittens together is highly recommended as they will entertain one another when you aren’t available ensuring they get into less mischief.
15. If you don’t socialize (play with, handle, pet, etc.) a kitten between the ages of 3 and 7 weeks it is unlikely the cat will ever be interested in human affection. This is why feral cats typically aren’t kept as potential cats for adoption if they are trapped.
16. Newborn kittens are unable to regulate their own body temperature the first 3 weeks they are alive, this means it is absolutely essential that they stay near their mother to stay healthy!
17. Kittens don’t open their eyes for the first time until about seven to ten days after birth. Their eyesight will not mature into that of an adult cat until they are almost 10 weeks old!
18. A mother cat’s milk contains important antibodies which help little kittens to develop and boost their immune systems, while also protecting them against infection.
19. If a mother cat is FIV+ it is possible for the kittens to test positive due to inheriting the antibodies from the mother. These antibodies will often clear the system by the age of about 6 months resulting in an accurate testing showing the kitten is FIV-.
20. The word “kitten” is from the late 14th century, appearing in Middle English as kitoun, ketoun and kyton . Linguists believe that the word actually comes from the Old French chitoun or cheton, meaning little cat. In England, from 1870 onwards “kitten” was a playful term for a young sweetheart, which might be where terms like “sex kitten” come from today!
21. This is probably one of my favorite interesting kitten facts! Kittens learn from a young age to purr when they are happy and relaxed. Kittens purr using their laryngeal and diaphragmatic muscles. They can purr while breathing in or out and do so at about 25-140 Hertz.  Scientists have discovered that sounds produced at this frequency can improve bone density and promote healing! While most mammals move around a lot during the day which exercises muscles and helps maintain bone health, cats in general (especially young kittens) spend a lot of their time asleep.  Scientists suspect that that cats might have developed the ability to purr to use the minimum amount of energy possible but still maintain great bodily health.  Check out this amazing infographic from Daily Infographic for more details.
22. Research indicates a human raising a kitten can impact personality later in its life. This is most common when a mother abandons kittens or dies from birthing them. Hand raised kittens are known as being very affectionate with humans, but there are drawbacks as well. Kittens brought up by humans are likely to have much larger mood swings.
23. All kittens are born with blue eyes, even if we can’t see them until about the 10 day mark. This because the brown pigment melanin has not yet been deposited in the irises of the eye, or darkened by exposure to ultraviolet light. There is a common myth that all humans are born with blue eyes, but this is simply not true.
24. Kitten noses are the equivalent of a human fingerprint, and no two noses are ever quite the same.
25. Kittens, like us humans, have a stronger more dominant paw. Research shows that the difference is typically based on gender.  Female kittens are usually right-pawed while their male siblings tend to be left-pawed. You’ll definitely notice this if you play with your cat often. Who knows when they’ll start releasing right and left pawed cat toys!?

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Hopefully you found these facts just as interesting as I did.  I had a lot of fun researching them and learned a lot about kittens that I never knew in the past. If you have any interesting kitten facts you’d like to add please leave a comment below or send me an email at Craig@StuffCatsWant.com so I can get it added to the page!

StuffCatsWant.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.

Product: Go Pet Club Cat Tree Review

Cheapest Place to Buy: Amazon

My Rating: 4 out of 5

 

 

 

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Go Pet Club Cat Tree Product Overview

If you’ve ended up here you must be in the market for a cat tree or a cat castle of some sort. The Go Pet Club Cat Tree is a pretty standard cat tree. It is designed to provide your felines with entertainment, exercise, scratching places & of course many places to sleep. This cat tree does an admirable job in all of the above.

If you haven’t already read my article on the reasons to buy a cat tree and the things you should consider when buying then definitely take a look at that before progressing any further. It’ll help you make sure you actually need a cat tree before you pick one up.  So let’s take a look at the Go Club Cat Tree in a bit more detail and whether or not it’ll serve your purposes, or I guess more importantly the purposes of your resident felines.

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My General Take:

I give this cat tree 4 stars.  This is a solid cat tree that will provide a great place for your fur balls to climb and sleep.  It is super easy from a construction standpoint and also very affordable from a cost standpoint. If you’re looking for an entry level cat tree you probably don’t need to look any further than this.

This cat tree isn’t as large or glamorous as some of the enormous trees or castles that are out there, but if you’ve only got one or two cats in the house this is probably a great fit for you.  It also doesn’t cost a ridiculous amount of money like some of the cat trees out there that are in the multi hundred dollar range.

That being said you should also be aware that a few aspects of this castle seem designed for incredibly small cats or even kittens. The key areas I’d call out with this problem are the small cylinder hanging near the top and the side extension basket which would probably only accommodate a very small cat.

I’d guess the cylinder would hold a kitten and the side basket maybe a 6-8 pound cat. If you have expectations that a medium sized cat of say 12 pounds or a large sized like a Maine Coon or a Ragdoll will be able to use all of the different areas you’ll be in for an unpleasant surprise.

You’ll see to the right a picture of my cat Lexi on the castle. She’s very fluffy and about 12 pounds for a frame of reference. You’ll also note I removed the hammock because neither of our cats were using it and it was making it hard for them to climb up through the hole in the second level.

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The Pros:

• The cats both love the multiple levels and are constantly climbing all over it, particularly to the top
• The cats love all of the different scratching areas included in the design and use them constantly
• This cat tree was super easy to put together
• It is quite mobile on a wood floor, the carpet was wrapped around to the bottom so it slides easily

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The Cons:

• After a year or so of constant use the top lookout has gotten a little bit flimsy
• Parts of the castle are definitely suited toward smaller cats or kittens so be aware of this
• We made the mistake of choosing the cream color with two dark cats and it constantly looks dirty
• Neither cat has ever used the hammock or the side extension basket, ever

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What are the measurements:

• Height: 62 inches
• Width: 38 inches
• Depth: 27 inches

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What’s In the Box:

• 3 major level boards that are all carpeted
• All the support bars which are mostly covered in sisal rope for scratching
• A small top location look out that is carpeted
• A side extension basket
• A hanging hammock & the hooks for hanging it
• A small cave add on that is fully carpeted as well

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Frequently Asked Questions:

• What are the dimensions of the top perch?
  • Inside: 12.5 inches x 11.5 inches
  • Outside: 14.5 inches x 13.5 inches
• My cat is about 10 pounds, will she be able to use the tree?
  • She’ll be able to use most parts of the tree. I would say the small cylinder hanging from the top and the basket that sticks out the side will likely be too small for her, but the rest should be fine.
• Was it difficult to put together?
  • It took me only about 30 minutes to put it together with the included hex wrench included and I’m certainly no construction specialist by any stretch of the word.
• Is it easy to move?
  • If you have wood floors you’re going to have zero issue moving this cat tree from location to location. If you have carpet instead then you might need to pull it instead of push it, but it isn’t heavy by any means.
• How does it hold up over time?
  • My cats use it daily and everything on it other than the top little tower area has held up without problem. The top tower is still workable as well, it has just become a little flimsy.
• Will it accommodate multiple cats?
  • I have two cats at home and it easily works for both of them at the same time. I would guess that even a third cat would still be able to take advantage of the castle without any particular issues. There’s plenty of space and plenty of levels to give them some privacy but also a couple of floors that would let them hang out right on top of each other if you have cats that are bonded.

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Wrapping It up:

If you’re looking for a great multi level cat tree at a nice affordable cost then the Go Pet Club Cat Tree is a great place to start. It’ll keep your cats happy with nice high places to relax and look down on you while at the same time minimizing your overall investment. The tree is also incredibly easy to move around if you’re likely to try it in multiple different locations before committing to one spot. All in all an excellent tree worth consideration.

If you’ve got this tree at home and have any experiences with it you’d like to share please comment below or shoot me a note at Craig@StuffCatsWant.com so I can update this article to reflect your thoughts.

StuffCatsWant.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.

If you’re overheating in the summer weather there’s a good chance your feline friend is too!  While cats originally came from the desert that doesn’t mean they are still used to the scorching hot temperatures that come with desert living.  Cats have a comfortable temperature range somewhere between X and Y degrees. The fluffier your cat is the more likely they’ll start getting uncomfortable in the hot weather. Just like us humans your cat get into pretty serious danger if they get too hot, they can suffer from anything as simple as dehydration all the way to organ failure.  So what are we humans to do?

While the obvious answer is keep them cool it might not be so simple to keep your cat cool. Some of us have the benefit of an air conditioned household there are plenty of folks out there who don’t have AC or who have cats that might spend a good chunk of time outside where we can’t control the temperature one bit!  Given this let’s talk a little bit about keeping your feline friend nice and cool in the hot weather!

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The Most Common Options:

Air Conditioning: The most likely solution is to leave your AC at a workable temperature for your cat(s) during the day. That being said, running AC is expensive and it is incredibly wasteful to run it for an entire house if your cat is the only one home. If this isn’t a good option for you there are plenty of other ways to help keep your furball cool on the hot summer days.

Ice: While it may seem obvious, do your best to drop a few ice cubes in your cats bowl at the begging of the day. If you’re using a water fountain for your cat you can just as easily drop the ice cubes into the reservoir of the fountain. It shouldn’t cause any problem for the pump if there’s sufficient water to ensure the cubes stay high up over the intake.  The Catit Water Fountain is perfect for this because the pump draws water in from the side where the cubes will never sit.

Fans: A great option that uses up a heck of a lot electricity than AC and will help keep your cat cool. Not only can you place a fan so it circulates air in your cat’s favorite resting places, but you can also place them in open windows to keep air moving. If you do decide to use the windows be sure to place fans so that the fans creating a draft throughout the house to help keep things cool.

The Basement: If you’re fortunate enough to have a basement it can be a huge perk in the summer months.  Leave your basement door open for your cat to go relax in the coolest part of the house! If you don’t normally let your cat down in the basement be sure to check for any potential hazards (chemicals or tools that might be out and about) and be sure the space is safe for your cat first.

Window Shades: Your house acts just like a car in the sun, just on a much larger scale.  The longer the sun shines through your windows the more it heats up throughout the day. Be sure to close the shades on your windows before you leave for the day to help keep the amount of sunlight down.

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Hands On Approaches:

Cool Damp Towels: If you’re home and you know your cat is hot you can also cool down a wash cloth or towel with cold water from the sink (few free to drop a few ice cubes in as well) and then give your cat a quick rub down. Note your towel will likely come away covered in cat hair so be sure not to use your wife’s guest towels, but it should also help cool your furball down a bit.

Grooming: First off, definitely don’t fully shave your cat. It is dangerous for their skin because it exposes them to sunburn. That being said a constant grooming schedule including a good brushing helps remove some of the extra loose fur on their body. This is especially true for long haired cats that can develop lots of extra fluff and need more brushing help. Not only is this good for minimizing hairballs, but it’ll help cool them off too.

A Cool Bath: We all know that most cats don’t particularly love baths (those of you with cats that love them have a leg up here), but a cool bath can also be a nice respite from the heat. You can use room temperature tap water (usually a lot cooler than the air) to help give your cat a nice break. Definitely don’t add ice to the water and be sure to help dry your cat off a bit after! If you have never bathed a cat before be sure to check out this great how to guide from WikiHow.

A Catsicle: You can create a catsicle (cat popsicle) per this awesome guide from Catster. While I haven’t tasted one of these myself they sound like they’d probably be a wonderful treat for a furry cat on a hot day!

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The High Tech Approach:

Cooling Cat Pads: If you’re wondering how to keep your cat cool in the summer, but you want to do it the high tech way then look no further. You know how there are car seats that keep your butt cool now?  Picture the same for a cat.  These don’t work in quite the same way because they aren’t electrical, but these cooling pads are pretty slick and they’re totally safe for your cat. This is one of the best ones out there (even though it has a picture of a dog it is for cats too!). These pads work based on the laws of nature and will keep your cat cool for a few hours at a time before requiring a ‘break’ to work again.

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Outdoor Cats Need Support Too:

Shade: Providing shade should be priority number one for your cat if they’re an outdoor cat.  Ensuring there are safe cool places should be pretty easy as most plants and trees provide great starting points. If you have a garden you can also consider some of the bigger plants I mention that are safe for cats in this article. Particulars include things like squashes & pumpkins because they develop huge leafy coverage your cat can hide under on a sunny day.

Fresh Water: Always be sure your cat has access to a fresh and clean water supply.  Dropping ice cubes in the water outside can be just as helpful as it is to your indoor kitty.

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A few other items worth noting:

While all of the above are great options there are a few other things you’ll want to consider when thinking about how to keep your cat cool in the summer. I’ve outlined a few additional items below worth keeping in mind:

• Ice Packs: A handmade ice pack made out of a water bottle or a bag filled with ice cubes can definitely be placed in your cats favorite place to sleep to help keep them cool. That being said you’ll want to be careful of using any of the ice packs that have chemicals or gels inside of them unless your cat is supervised the whole time or unless it is specifically noted as non-toxic. If your kitty decides to get mischievous and break them open they could easily end up very sick.
• Play Time: If your cat has play time on a daily basis be sure to shift that play time to a later cooler part of the day. If your cat gets amped up and exercises a bunch when they are already really hot they’re more likely to get dehydrated and get themselves into trouble.
• Cars: If you do so have to travel in the summer heat be sure to never leave your cat in a parked car alone. If you need to leave the car then take your cat with you. Just like kids and dogs, plants even, cats left in a parked car in the sun will quickly become incredibly hot and could die if left alone. NEVER leave your cat in a parked car alone.
• Hire Some Help: You can always hire a guy with one of those big leafs to constantly fan your cat. Given most cats believe they are king or queen of the household this might make your cat feel like they’ve finally arrived while also staying cool as a cucumber.

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Let’s wrap things up!

While cats may have come from the desert historically, our resident house cats aren’t built to handle desert temperatures!  We need to keep an eye out for their best interest as well as we can. Here’s a quick list of signs you should keep an eye out for on hot summer days. If you see any of these signs definitely do your best to get your cat to your vet straight away:

• Panting
• Drooling
• Breathing trouble

The above are all signs that your kitty might be suffering from a heatstroke which can cause significant long term damage. Err on the side of safety if you’re not sure and give your vet a call!

If you have any other novel ideas or thoughts on how to keep your cat cool in the summer days please do share them below or email me directly at Craig@StuffCatsWant.com so I can get them added to the list.

 

If your cats are anything like my cats then from time to time they decide to lick you. Now this feeling isn’t anything like that of a dog, dog licks are generally a little bit wet and sloppy and afterward you’re thinking to yourself ‘Thanks, but that was kind of gross.’  Cats on the other hand have their own bag of tricks and have an equally perplexing lick, one that is instead dry and feels a little bit like sand paper.

So when your cat licks you is she rewarding you? If she punishing you? Is she doing this because she likes you? Let’s take a look into and look at why cats lick in general and then figure out why do cats lick their owners! We’ll also discuss a few options you can consider if you’re not a fan of cat licks and you’d like to modify this behavior.

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Why Do Cats Lick In General?

There are a couple of major reasons that cats lick, but they are mostly related to cleanliness.  The two biggest reasons cats lick themselves or each other are:

• To clean themselves: When a cat licks herself it is pretty general grooming behavior. Cats spend a hefty chunk of their day, every day, cleaning themselves. A little vain don’t you think? While it may sound odd how much time they spend grooming it is primarily a survival mechanism. Not only does it keep them clean but it also removes the scents that would historically be left on them from hunting. This ensures other predators can’t track them as easily which keeps them safe and sound.
• To clean their close friends: When cats feel incredibly comfortable with each other they’ll often go through the process called bonding. What this essentially means is that these cats are best buddies. You’ll see them do everything from sleeping on top of one another to wrestling to you guessed it, licking each other to groom one another. This is a very positive behavior because it helps cats reach places that are difficult to reach on their own like their ears and the top of their head.

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Does the Tongue Do a Good Job?

Cat’s tongues are actually quite a bit different than that of a human or a dog.  Your cat’s tongue feels like sandpaper because it’s covered with a boatload of these little things called papillae. These are made of keratin (the same stuff a cat’s nails are made of) and they resemble little hooks that face the back of the mouth.

Why you might ask? They likely evolved this way because they help cats pull meat off bones, a pretty handy skill when cats weren’t fed boneless wet food or crunchy dry kibble.

More importantly for this article, those papillae also assist in grooming. They mimic a comb or a brush and every time your cat drags her tongue across her body they do things like pull out loose fur and dirt.  Now you can also see why your cat might end up with hairballs, she is basically combing herself with her tongue and ends up swallowing a lot of that hair. This is the reason brushing your cat often helps you stop your cat from vomiting.

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So Why Do Cats Lick Their Owners?

At this point you’re probably saying to yourself “But I’m not dirty, I don’t stink! I don’t need my cat to clean me.”  But let’s be honest, we all know you only shower once a week and that you likely could use a little extra help….Just kidding! Honestly though, if your cat is licking you they aren’t necessarily telling you that you smell bad or that you’re not clean, they’re doing it because they look at you as an incredibly close friend/companion.

Generally speaking, cats only lick people they feel 100% comfortable around.  There are of course exceptions to the above, but the bulk of cats will only lick people they consider near and dear to them. So take this as a really positive sign!

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What If My Cat Won’t Stop Licking Me

While not the most common problem in the world, it does surface from time to time. Some cats simply won’t stop licking their wonderful human. This is typically not considered normal behavior and is likely driven by anxiety of some sort. Cats get anxious from a lot of different things, but some of the most common are: new people in the house, a new pet in the house, a recent move, and the list goes on.

If none of the above have taken place recently but your cat is still constantly licking you then she might be stressed for a variety of other reasons. One of the best ways to help a cat destress is to provide structured play sessions every single day.

This means taking time to specifically interact with your cat and ensure she gets to spend some of her pent up energy! A wand, a laser pointer, a piece of string, any of these make a great toy to play with your cat.  If you’re not sure what to do then check out other my article for a few ideas on playing her.

If you’ve already been playing with your cat but you aren’t having any luck then you should consider trying to redirect your cat’s attention when she comes to lick you. This can be done in a variety of ways, but the most common is with a cat nip toy of some sort or perhaps a puzzle toy with treats inside it. When she comes to lick place the toy near her mouth instead or shake the puzzle toy and roll it on the ground so she can go after it.

If structured play and redirection fail to do the trick then it might be worth a vet visit to see if your feline friend has a potential health issue.

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Wrapping Things Up

There’s quite a bit to read here, so if you don’t have the time and you just want to know why do cats lick their owners then read the summary below! I’ll quickly recap the article:

• Cats lick for a variety of reasons, but if they are licking you it is because they like you! Take it as a compliment.
• If they are licking you or themselves too often they might be overly nervous or anxious.
• You can try to distract your cat by playing with her or putting a toy in her mouth when she licks you.
• Last but not least, per usual, yelling at your cat or scaring her when she licks you or herself is not going to help change her behavior. In fact, if anything it will likely result in encouraging the bad behavior. Be sure to be patient with your furry friend while you figure out the problem and resolve it!

If you have any other thoughts or stories on cats that have been persistent in licking you or cats that have needed some help to stop licking themselves then please leave a comment below or send me an email at Craig@StuffCatsWant.com so I can update this article.

StuffCatsWant.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.

So you’ve just gotten a cat and you’re wondering if you should be feeding her once, twice, three times a day.  What’s the right number? Does it depend on the size of the cat? Does it depend on what kind of food I’m feeding my cat? There are so many variables that factor into this decision it can be mind boggling!

You’re probably just asking how many times a day should I feed my cat? On top of this, you’re probably wondering how much you should feed your cat in each meal! Before we get into the details of how often to feed your cat let’s take a look into your the general diet of your cat.

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What Do Cats Eat?

Cats are obligate carnivores. This basically means they can’t live without meat in their diet because specific nutrients they need simply aren’t available in plants. While the form of meat can range from beef to poultry to fish and everything in between, cats do require a source of meat to maintain a healthy diet. This doesn’t mean a cat cannot eat things like peas, or potatoes or rice, it just means that they can’t survive solely on a plant based diet.

To build protein, cats need to get an adequate supply of 11 different amino acids that their body can’t naturally produce. Without getting into the technicalities of it, there are some 23 amino acids that are used to build all protein and cats can only naturally produce 12 of them. This means they have to get the other 11 from their diet otherwise health issues ensue.

The health issues can be very serious, so do pay close attention to the amino acid contents. If you’d like to read more on the necessary amino acids and why they are so important checkout this article from PetMD that describes it in detail.

You can read a full run down on what cats eat here in another article I posted, I provided a shortened version above for ease of reading!

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What All Factors In?

While there are of course a few generally accepted rules regarding feeding your cat…there are also a couple of factors worth taking into account before you make a decision on how often you should feed your cat.  The key items worth noting are:

• Age:
  • Kittens require more food per pound of body weight to support their growth than do adult cats. They also require a higher protein diet than adult cats although the recommended differences are small. Kittens should therefore be fed more often throughout the day.
  • The shelter I volunteer at generally recommends that kittens be free fed with dry food all day up until they are about 6 months old. If you’re having issues with your kitten constantly eating and worried she may get overweight definitely speak with your vet about spreading the meals out and controlling portion size.
  • A normal adult cat will generally not require feeding as often as a kitten so you can provide larger meals.  If you have a cat that is a bit of a hoover and eats too fast and gets sick then you can break up the meals or use a puzzle feeder to help slow her down.
  • When a cat ages, her teeth may start to encounter problems and she might also develop gum disease. This can make it a heck of a lot harder for your cat to eat dry food. If you encounter this problem then switch to wet or at least provide a combination of the two. While you can also try sprinkling some water on dry food some cats won’t touch it afterward.

• Sickness:

  • If your cat suffers from a health problem such as diabetes, you may need to feed her based on whenever she is administered insulin.  The shelter I volunteer at has a resident cat named Pierre that needs to be fed on a very rigid schedule to ensure he stays healthy.  This often coincides with the time that insulin is given to him, but be sure to ask your vet if you have a diabetic cat as each one is unique.
  • If you are having trouble with your cat constantly eating it is also worth noting your cat could have a hyperthyroid problem. This is definitely worth a discussion with your vet to ensure it gets treated.

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What if My Cat Is Overweight?

Just like humans, the metabolism of your cat will change throughout her life and you will need to modify her diet accordingly.  If you’re not sure if your cat is overweight be sure to have your yearly vet check up where you can get an expert opinion.

If you want to check yourself you can feel your cat’s backbone and ribs. If the ribs and backbone show through her skin, she is too thin. If you can’t feel the ribs, your cat is likely overweight. Adjust her portions accordingly and keep track using a scoop you can measure with.

Keeping your cat from becoming obese is much easier than forcing an obese cat to diet. And it will make both you and your cat a lot happier.

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So How Many Times a Day Should I Feed My Cat?

The number of meals a cat eats per day depends on all of the above as well as what can be reasonably accomplished with your schedule as a cat owner. That being said, free feeding cats dry food 24 hours a day is not recommended because it almost guarantees your cat will get overweight.

Cats should eat at least two meals each day. We personally feed our cats Beastling and Lexi at about 8 AM and about 8 PM each day. This is a pretty typical schedule at about 12 hours apart.

That being said you can use a schedule that includes breakfast, lunch, an afternoon snack, dinner, and right before bed meals. This is an equally great option if you can support it. If more than 12 hours passes between meals your cat’s stomach can become overly-acidic and may result in your cat getting sick. Beyond this most cats will also just get really hungry and probably not be too happy!  Do your best to avoid long breaks between food.

If your cat seems to still be hungry with the schedule you are using you can also try feeding her some snacks in between meals, cat grass is a great healthy snack for cats and is super easy to grow. There are also tons and tons of treats out there on the market you can use, but be sure to limit these to keep your cat healthy.

I know I haven’t yet provided a recommendation on how much to feed your cat, I’ll provide that in an upcoming article. While there are some generally recommended estimates, you should have a discussion with your vet on what is right for your cat as it will depend on the age, breed, activity level and many other factors.

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Wrapping It  Up

While you’ll have to personally decide on what is best for your cat, there are a couple of general rules of thumb when it comes to feeding your cat(s). Here’s a quick rundown of what you need to know when you’re trying to answer the question how many times a day should I feed my cat:

• Cats depend on a high protein diet whether you’re feeding them wet or dry food
• You don’t want to free feed your cat unless they manage their own diet, free feeding leads to overweight cats
• You’ll generally want to feed your cat at least twice a day, spreading it into more meals is fine if you can accommodate the schedule
• Deciding the exact amount to feed your cat depends on the age, size & activity of your cat, consult your veterinarian
• One additional thing you should always keep in mind as well is that your cat should always have access to fresh water

If you have any other thoughts on the how often you feed your cat please leave a comment below or send me an email at Craig@StuffCatsWant.com so I can update this article or respond in kind.

StuffCatsWant.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.